The Taste of Empire

By Lizzie Collingham

The book is about how Britain’s love for food shaped its empire—and how that empire, in turn, shaped what people ate around the world. It’s an interesting look at how something as simple as a cup of tea or a spoonful of sugar is tied to centuries of trade, exploitation, and global power shifts.

Most people assume the goal of empire-building is a grab for land, power, and resources, but the author makes the case that food was a major driver too. When Britain started expanding overseas in the 1500s and 1600s, one of the biggest motivations was securing a steady supply of spices, sugar, tea, coffee, and other foods that were hard to get at home. The East India Company wasn’t just a trading powerhouse—it was also one of the first global food distribution networks.

To keep up with demand, Britain set up massive plantations in the Caribbean, India, and Africa, producing sugar, rice, and tea on a huge scale. These plantations ran on forced labor—enslaved people and indentured workers toiling under brutal conditions to keep British tables stocked. Meanwhile, British diets were changing, with once-luxury items like tea and sugar becoming everyday staples.

At the same time, the British were reshaping food systems in their colonies. They introduced wheat farming in India, promoted beef production in Australia, and spread British-style eating habits everywhere they went.

Before colonial expansion, the British diet was pretty bland—lots of bread, cheese, and boiled meats. But thanks to the empire, food got a serious flavor boost. Tea became the national drink, sugar found its way into everything, and spices like cinnamon and nutmeg transformed British cooking. Even curry became a British favorite, thanks to returning colonists and Indian cooks adapting recipes for British tastes.

There’s chapter on how tea became the national drink. It wasn't just a luxury good, but it became fuel for the working class. As Britain industrialized, factory workers, miners, and laborers needed cheap, quick energy to keep up with long shifts and grueling work. The solution? Sweetened tea. It was cheap, easy to make, and provided an instant energy boost from the caffeine and sugar combo.

Employers even encouraged workers to take tea breaks because it kept them productive and alert. This habit turned tea drinking into an essential part of British daily life. It wasn’t just a cultural tradition—it was a workforce fuel strategy, powered by empire.

By the 1800s and 1900s, food production had industrialized. British ships weren’t just bringing back raw ingredients—they were carrying canned meats, processed sugar, and pre-packaged foods, making it easier than ever to enjoy the tastes of the empire without the hassle of cooking from scratch.

Food was also used as a tool of control. British authorities restricted what crops could be grown, forcing farmers to produce cash crops like sugar and tea instead of local staples. This left many colonies dependent on imported food, a problem that still exists in former British territories today.

There was a chapter on Bengal famine which I completely disagreed with. It ignores the realities of war and logistics and portrays Churchill as the villain.

As the empire collapsed in the 20th century, the impact of British rule didn’t just disappear. Tea culture in India, sugar plantations in the Caribbean, and the widespread popularity of British foods like biscuits and canned goods all trace back to empire days. Even today, British supermarkets are filled with products from former colonies, from Indian curry sauces to Caribbean rum.

This book is an interesting read if you’re into food history, global trade. It’s packed with interesting stories, surprising connections.